Chloe
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Phoebe Philo on Chloe
"I love all the couture fabrics. You know, boucles and gazars. Its wonderful to work with them. They are really lush and expensive and rich. But they are not that versatile, you have to kind of respect them. You can't do things that you can do with other fabrics, so it was an interesting process."
Fendi
Photo: Don Ashby
Karl Lagerfeld on Fendi
"Sometimes it's leather, sometimes it's pique, sometimes it's plastic, but it's all done with laser. You know, you couldn't do that before."
Gucci
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Frida Giannini on Gucci
"The first step was to bring in a sense of joy, because I really feel that optimism is part of our lives, and of my personality, my vision. I felt we needed to play a little bit with prints. Some are from the archives, some were totally new, with a few very solid, very strong colors."
Luella Bartley
Photo: Greg Kessler
Luella Bartley on her collection:
"This collection has all the English traditional elements that I love those very aristo (riding, tennis, sailing) rich English sports, mixed with the London underground music scene. There is a contrast of uptown, uptight conservativeness, with this downtown attitude, taking inspiration from the Velvet Underground with the striped T-shirts and all that iconic New York history."
I must say her impression of modern London fashion was dead on with originality, funk, yet kept it girly.
Michael Kors
Photo: Greg Kessler
Michael Kors on his line:
"For this show I kept thinking, how do you look at the romantic and take the sweetness out of it? Make it viable for the world today? We used the west as sort of the starting point, and the whole idea of really beautiful textures, a lot of lace, a lot of embroideries, mixed with beautiful Michael tailoring."
Micheal, you will always be my favorite American Designer! Always effortless, beautiful, tailored, and wearable.
Proenza Schouler
Photo: Greg Kessler
Proenza Schouler's Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough
Hernandez:
"We went to this big museum in Los Angeles after our last show and saw all these amazing Arts and Crafts pieces. The Arts and Crafts movement was basically a reaction against industrialization, and we find it so relevant to today, as a reaction to all this mass, mass everything. From afar it looks like nothing, but the closer you get, the more detail and things you see. Then you look on the inside of some of these garments, and it's insane whatÂ’s inside of them."
McCollough: "We have been saying it's kind of a minimal baroque."
As always, unique lines, attention to detail, and soft glowing glamour.
Marni
For spring, the Marni pieces we expect were there: the short, wide raglan-sleeve fifties jackets, the loosely fitted summer dresses, the duster coats pulled in with belts all made with that familiar air of happy accidents at the home sewing machine. -Sarah Mower.
Marc by Marc Jacobs
hmmm can we say bad flashback from the late '80s. Uni-suits, scrunchi socks, leggings with stirups, sweatshirts over leggings, even arm warmers! Yikes, Marc, please please go back to the sweet 70s. At least then most of your customers will never remember wearing those scary pieces!
